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You’re Doin’ It Wrong: Face Product Application

I recently came across this illustration that demonstrates the proper way to apply cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and eye cream. Who knew we were doing it wrong all this time?

It does make sense though. Have you ever noticed the way an aesthetician applies products when you’re getting a facial? The direction in which moisturizer and toner are applied affects the way they’re absorbed by the skin, and the circular motion used with scrubs and cleansers helps to completely exfoliate and eliminate dirt and oil. 

So what do you think? Great advice, or too much work? Let me know in the comments.

Illustration via Mario Badescu

Shear Genius: Episode 7

Well, we’re halfway through– twelve stylists have been whittled down to six. Hopefully, the remaining stylists will have some new fire after last week’s poor showing.

For the Shortcut Challenge, we were introduced to Robert Hallowell, aka the Kitchen Beautician, known for his use of common food items in place of styling products. For this week’s challenge, the stylists were asked to create a futuristic, sculpted style without the assistance of hairspray, gel, mousse, pomade, or any other traditional styling aid. Instead, they are provided with “natural” products like hummus, mustard, and caramel.

Now, Hallowell explains that these products are “greener” than salon styling products, and that they’re better for your hair. I’m sorry, but I think this is a major exaggeration.

Don’t get me wrong– avocado can be a great hair mask for moisture and hair repair, and there are many other foods that are beneficial to hair, both through external use and ingestion. But, seriously? I don’t know about you, but I’m fairly certain that putting corn syrup and squid in your hair does not provide any significant benefit. I guess the producers just wanted to justify having stylists use such outlandish supplies.

During the challenge, there were some fun catty remarks between stylists: Nekisa and Charlie, of course. Tensions ran high, because these products made it really difficult for the stylists to do what they envisioned.

It was especially bad for Nicole, who eventually just started throwing random products (squid, raspberries) in her client’s hair. When she was announced as the loser of the challenge, she was hardly surprised.

At least one stylist made really smart choices when picking the natural products. Paolo selected coconut oil (great for shine and conditioning) and corn syrup (sticky but clear, easily diluted with water) and was able to pull off a great space-age look that won him the challenge.

Next, the stylists arrived at a park to meet their new clients for the elimination challenge… dogs! And, as if cutting and styling a dog’s hair weren’t enough, the already-freaked stylists were informed that they would also be styling the dogs’ owners. The object of this elimination challenge is to give both human and canine clients a fun new look, playing with the idea that dogs often look like their owners.

Watching the stylists with their pup clients is a really fun change of pace. You can tell that they all needed some doggie lovin’ in their lives in the midst of this cutthroat competition. Daniel even burst into song about his client, Lola.

However, these stylists had no idea what to do with dog hair, and it showed. In the end, the dogs looked pretty much the same, with brushed and trimmed hair. Not terribly inspiring.

Many stylists chose to use the dog’s hair color as inspiration for their human client. For some, this was really successful, creating beautiful caramels and fun highlights. For Nekisa’s poor client, this meant really harsh blonde highlights against a background of naturally chestnut hair. Yikes. 

In the end, it was Dee’s fun choppy bob that wins the day. I wasn’t in love with this look– I thought the cut was poorly executed, with a sort of spiky rooster tail at the top of the head. My personal faves were Daniel’s doggy hair extensions (with a soft updo on the pup’s owner) and Nicole’s really versatile layered cut.

As for the bottom two, it was Paolo and -surprise!- Nekisa! Nekisa’s poor client looked better before the evil witch got her hands on her; the final look was over-highlighted and over-straightened. Thankfully, the judges finally decided that it was Nekisa’s time to go. Phew. 

 

Images via BravoTV.com

The Women of “Mad Men”

I’ve recently become completely addicted to AMC’s acclaimed series Mad Med, and not just for the steamy storylines and fascinating portrayal of 1960s Manhattan. The women of Mad Men are perfectly styled, from period-appropriate hairstyles to stunning red lips and cat eyes. The show manages to capture the essence of early-60s style without making any of the actresses into caricatures.

Even though the show is a period drama, the looks are so classic that you could definitely pull them off today. Check out some of my favorites.

 

Joanne (Christina Hendricks)

My number one favorite, Joanne, the office manager at Sterling Cooper, has a simple, classic look that emphasizes the sexuality her character exudes. Her lips are often ruby red, and her flaming red hair put up in an oh-so-sixties chignon.

 

Rachel (Maggie Siff)

Rachel, the owner of a swank 5th Avenue department store, is always immaculate. A woman in a man’s world, she values a professional, put together look, complete with pearls.

 

Betty (January Jones)

Betty’s style is much more conservative than many of the other characters on the show. Always soft and feminine, she embodies the June Cleaver role of perfect housewife.

 

For more gorgeous looks, watch Mad Men, Sundays at 10pm on AMC.

Images via Vanity Fair, StarPulse, About.com, and BrynMawr.edu

 

Katie Gets Cut!

Katie Holmes debuted a new, shorter hairstyle yesterday. She’s been getting progressively shorter over the last year or so, following in the footsteps of friend/icon Victoria Beckham. What do you think of her new look? Too short and spiky? Or sleek and gamine?

 

Image via PopSugar

Shear Genius Recap: Episode 6

 Alright, here’s the recap for last night’s episode of Shear Genius, titled “Not So Angelic.” Let me tell you, it was quite a doozy.

I’ll start by reminding you that Shear Genius judge Kim Vo is famous for his work with extreme hair color. In this week’s Shortcut Challenge, the contestants got to try their hand at a vibrant look in the vein of Vo’s trademark. The stylists were given carte blanche to create a wild hairstyle with bright, bold colors.

I wasn’t that impressed with the final looks—I was looking forward to something really fun. Nekisa, once again, whined and made excuses about being in the bottom two, but eventually it was last week’s big winner Paolo, with a black and bluish mess, who was chosen as the worst look.  Dee stayed strong, once again coming in top two, and in the end Charlie’s carousel ponytail look took the cake as the most creative and vibrant.

After the Shortcut challenge, everyone went home to relax. Of course, there was no lack of drama in the house as Charlie decided bait and taunt Nekisa for the sake of entertainment. Well, it is reality TV.

On to the Elimination Challenge: Charlie’s Angels! Host Jaclyn Smith is a former Charlie’s Angel, so we should have expected this. Each team was assigned three women with the task of reinventing the signature hairstyles from the show. Charlie, as winner of shortcut, got to choose teams, and participated in the challenge only as a “roaming stylist.” Acting in his typical devious manner, Charlie decided to keep friends together with the hopes that good friends do not necessarily make good partners. For Dee and Nekisa, his plan worked, and they bickered during the whole challenge.


Row 1: Paolo and Daniel; Row 2: Dee and Nekisa; Row 3: Glenn and Nicole

 

I liked all the Kate haircuts (the ones in the middle)—all fun and short and modern, especially Nekisa and Dee’s. The Jaclyn styles all fell flat to me: they were generally boring curls that I could have done at home with my Wal-Mart curling iron. I hated the Farrah looks—everyone just tried to copy the Farrah Flip, rather than reinvent it. The hair models all looked too dated, too hairsprayed, and too stiff. The judges completely agreed, saying that everyone looked more like a caricature of the Angels.

Everyone pretty much blew it, failed at modernizing anything. In a chocking turn, the judges (including guest judge, former Charlie’s Angel Kate Jackson) declared that there was no winner! Nekisa and Glenn were chosen for the bottom two.

 

Let me just rant for a moment; Nekisa is delusional or blind, and can’t tell when her styles fall flat. She has been consistently in the bottom two for the challenges, and her personality rubs me the wrong way. I have been praying for weeks that she gets voted off, and I was so excited that it might just happen.

But NO—once again, Nekisa is saved for another week, and bland-but-not-terrible Glenn is gone. Reality TV is so unfair.

Images via BravoTV.com

Shear Genius Recap: Episode 5

“Some things are more important than a challenge”

This week’s episode of Shear Genius really tugged at the heartstrings, and featured hair superstar Oscar Blandi as a guest judge.

First, the stylists were whisked off to the beach, where they had to create a polished evening style on scruffy surfer dudes. The catch? They couldn’t wash their client’s hair! Instead, armed with only shears, battery-operated clippers, and a spray bottle, the stylists went to town. Despite the snarky comments by Daniel and Glenn about her lack of experience, Nicole really pulled it out with a sexy, cleaned-up tousle. 

 

For the elimination challenge, the stylists lined up to meet with their clients, and were shocked to find that each and every one was completely bald! The clients were all women suffering from alopecia, an immune disorder that destroys the hair follicles. Every stylist was moved to hear the clients’ stories, experiences, and frustrations. Alopecia is a permanent condition, with no known cause or cure.

The challenge proved extremely difficult, as the stylists were required to create a fun new look using a wig. It was especially hard for Nicole, who had never cut wig hair, and whose client was very emotional. The two shared a beautiful connection, as both realized that there are things in life more important than a challenge. As it turned out, despite her nerves and emotions, Nicole really rocked the elimination challenge.

It was Paolo, however, who was finally able to pull out a win. After weeks in the bottom, Paolo styled a fun, flirty red look for his young client. While I personally though it still looked really “wiglike,” it was good to see that his client was happy with the style. 
 
Gail, on the other hand, had a tough time. After doing poorly in the beach styling challenge, Gail’s inexperience showed through once again in the elimination challenge when she attempted a classy, sleek look on her client. Instead, the hairstyle looked bulky and strange, with too much of a V-shape at the hairline, a classic tell that a person is wearing a wig. Gail’s poor execution got her sent home.

I’m not sure I agree with the judges’ choices. None of the stylists really pulled off a great look with the wigs–  the wig line they used was not the best. Honestly, many of the women came in wearing wigs that were much more natural-looking and flatteringly styled. Plus, I think Nikisa is long overdue for elimination; she has yet to impress me with any style she does, and is constantly in the bottom three.  

 

Do you agree with the judges’ decision? Let me know in the comments!

 

Images via BravoTV.com

Straight Answers on Going Straight: Part IV

Here it is: the fourth and final installment of my series on hair straightening techniques. This time, I’m giving you all the details on Brazilian Hair Straightening.

The latest in hair straightening techniques, Brazilian Hair Straightening, debuted in the US in the summer of 2007, and uses a keratin compound to coat and smooth the hair shaft. Because of the way keratin naturally absorbs into the hair shaft, the cuticle is not forced open and subsequently shut the way it is with chemical straighteners. The results are similar to the Japanese technique, but the process not as harsh.

Pros: Stylists and clients alike have deemed Brazilian Hair Straightening as nothing short of miraculous. It leaves hair soft, smooth, and completely straight. It does not alter the chemical structure of hair the way relaxers and thermal reconditioning do, and thus is perfectly safe for colored or chemically treated hair. The chemicals used are much gentler to the hair, and many stylists claim that the treatment actually repairs and moisturizes hair while straightening it. When directly compared to Japanese hair straightening (its main rival), it is both cheaper ($150-$600) and requires significantly less time in the salon (1.5-4 hours). Your perfectly straight hair will last anywhere from two to four months.

Cons: Soon after its introduction, Brazilian hair straightening faced a major backlash because of the formaldehyde content of the product used. Formaldehyde, the main ingredient in embalming fluid, is a possible carcinogen, and is at its most dangerous when inhaled as a gas; the application of heat (as in the hot iron used during the hair straightening process) turns formaldehyde into its gaseous form. The brands most popularly used in US salons have been reported as having higher-than-safe levels of formaldehyde. Because of its formaldehyde content, and the novelty of the technology, it is still unclear how safe this technique is, and it is not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women.  Also, just like with the Japanese technique, it is advised that you don’t wash or pull back your hair during the first 72 hours after treatment.

A few tips: Be sure to find a stylist who is experienced in this technique, and do your research. Read the many articles available about the process and make your own judgment on the safety of the formaldehyde levels. Remember that this is not a permanent straightening process, and that return trips to the salon every few months will be necessary to maintain the look. 

 

For more info on hair straightening, check out the other three installments of this series.
Part I: Flat Irons
Part II: Hair Relaxers 
Part III: Japanese Hair Straightening

 

Image via Getty Images

Shear Genius Recap: Episode 4

Have you been watching the new season of Shear Genius? Hair stylists compete in all kinds of crazy challenges on this Bravo reality show in its second hit season.  It’s pretty funny watching the stylists’ conflicting skills and egos go head-to-head. While it’s a bit of a knock-off of Project Runway, it’s sort of a guilty pleasure, and actually gives some great tips to viewers. I’m a bit behind the game, but I thought I’d start giving a weekly episode recap. To catch up on all the action, watch the clip below, then read on!

 

In the latest episode, stylists first competed in a cutthroat challenge of client musical chairs. During this chaotic face-off, stylists were forced to switch clients every few minutes! Uber-cocky Charlie tried to strategize by choosing a client with thick, curly hair, assuming that he wouldn’t end up with her when the challenge was over. Too bad he guessed wrong—all the clients made their way back to their original stylists for the final swap.  In the end, it was Dee’s amazing salon management skills that won the challenge. The key to her strategy? Communication! Dee made sure that she told each stylist working on her client exactly what look she was going for, and what the client wanted.

For the elimination challenge, the stylists had to give a client a fresh, new look, then teach the client how to do it herself. This was a really great, real-world challenge, as hairstylists are often required to create looks that a client can reproduce from home. Many of the stylists focused on creating a great style, without taking into consideration how difficult it would be for a client to style alone.

The winner of the challenge, Glenn, gave her client a great, easy layered ‘do, while keeping the styling simple. Her client even boasted that this new style cut her morning prep time in half!

Sadly, Meredith’s look bombed—not so much in her client’s ability to recreate it, but in the cut’s execution itself. Judge Kim Vo said the style looked “like a squid,” too heavy in the front, and stringy in the back.  

Stay tuned for next week’s Shear Genius recap for more hair styling drama!

 

Images via BravoTV.com and BloggingShearGenius.blogspot.com

How Effective Is Your Sunscreen?

            

           The Environmental Working Group  (EWG) published a study this week about which brands of sun block are the most effective.  You may recall that, last summer, there was a big hubbub about UVA rays—the spectrum of rays from the sun that cause ageing and even skin cancer. The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) rating found on commercial sunscreen only measures protection against UVB rays, the ones that cause sunburns.

            The FDA proposed last August that sun block manufacturers should begin labeling their products for both UVA and UVB protection factors. Well, according to the study, it would appear as though most of the major brands of sunscreen are a bit behind in ensuring that we are protected from both types of rays.

            Certain additives in sunscreen have also been linked to toxic effects, and many ingredients that protect from the sun also degrade when exposed to strong sunlight. The study has ranked sunscreens (from popular brands like Hawaiian Tropic to natural brands like Jason) in order of their effectiveness, and potential safety.

While the findings of the study are a bit confusing, the main points are:

            -       Be sure that your sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB rays.

            -       Look for ingredients like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, that protect your skin, but are not                          absorbed by it.

            -       REAPPLY your sunscreen at least every two hours, more frequently if you are swimming or                              sweating.

 

To learn more, and to see where your favorite brand falls in the ranking, check out EWG’s Cosmetic Database

 

 

Melt-Proof Makeup

            Heat and humidity can sure take a toll on your makeup. Eye shadow creases, lipstick smears, and foundation wipes off. Thankfully, I have a few tricks up my sleeve that help to keep makeup in place, even on the most uncomfortable of summer days.

         The key word? PRIMERS! These magical inventions prep your skin, smooth cracks, and provide a base to which your makeup can adhere. For budge-proof foundation, try a primer like Smashbox’s Photo Finish (you can read more about how much I love this product here). You can wear it alone, under foundation, or top it off with some powder. For a great pressed powder, try Cargo’s bluRay High Definition pressed powder; if you’re more into loose powder, Make Up For Ever has HD Microfinish Powder, a lovely talc-free finishing powder that suits any skintone.

            Once you’ve got your foundation on, it’s time for crease-free eye shadow! Prep your lids with Too Faced’s Shadow Insurance, or Urban Decay’s Eyeshadow Primer Potion. Not only will a shadow primer keep your color in place, but it actually makes your eye shadow more vibrant and truer to its shade. Stay away from creamy shadows, as powder shadows do better in humidity.

            To keep your lipstick from bleeding or smearing? You guessed it—lip primer! Benefit’s Lip Plump helps fill in the creases of your lips, and helps your lip color stay in place. For added pigment protection, use your lip liner to line and fill in your lips before putting on gloss or lipstick.

            And there you have it—a makeup look that won’t drip or droop in the summer sun!

 

Images via Getty Images and Sephora.com

 

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